Please note: This post contains affiliate links.
Have you ever dreamt about a place and anticipated an experience for years? My dream has been swimming with humpback whales in Tonga, a Pacific island nation close to Fiji and Samoa.
While gorilla trekking in Rwanda in 2007, a couple raved about snorkeling with wild humpback whales. Sharing that I loved swimming with wild dolphins in New Zealand and Belize, they excitedly told me this would be exponentially more mind-blowing. Imagining gliding next to a school bus-sized cetacean sent my heart racing.
Finding a time to go proved difficult due to availability and my work schedule. Fortuitously, conversations during a wildlife conservation event in November 2014 compelled us to check the N’aia schedule. With the universe smiling upon us, we secured the last two remaining spots to swim with humpback whales for September 2017.
Swimming with humpback whales is magical
A guide described it perfectly. The week is comprised of incredibly memorable moments, which you piece together into an amazing mosaic.
These are wild animals that choose to interact with you on their terms. Sometimes they are curious. Other times, they are disinterested or protective.
When humpback whales engage, it is absolutely marvelous. Knowing they have a huge ocean at their disposal, it’s incredible when they choose to stay in one location and spend time connecting with you.
Finding myself eye level with a silvery humpback whale calf our first afternoon brought tears to my eyes. Watching it maneuver its tiny pectoral fins to propel itself forward is endearing. Seeing it move in closer to check me out took my breath away.
While I say small, make no mistake, they are still quite large – the size of a car. Newborn humpback whales are a pale grey, measure 9-16 feet (3-5 meters), and weigh 1.5 to 2 tons (3000-4000 pounds). Consuming 400-500 liters of milk per day, they gain 45 kg (100 pounds) a day, weighing 15 tons (30,000 pounds) once they are a year old.
Entranced with the baby, I didn’t notice mum approaching from below. Already thinking the calf was large, I squealed into my snorkel as I saw mum emerging. At 50 feet (15m) and 40 tons (80,000 pounds), she looked like a submarine!
Watching her gracefully glide over and reunite with her baby (who was smaller than her pec fin) is heartwarming. Realizing that she’d been observing and trusting us with her baby is precious.
Humpback whales are incredibly tactile and tender
Watching the intimacy between mother and calf is extraordinary.
To prevent the tiny baby from bobbing to the surface like a cork, she uses her pectoral fins like a baby gate. Lifting her pec fin signals the calf it’s time to take a breath. While adult humpback whales can breath hold for 45 minutes, calves need to surface every three to five minutes.
Swimming out from beneath mum, the baby begins its ascent to the surface, clumsily using its tail and pec fins to maneuver. While surfacing, they sometimes became interested in us, particularly those with cameras. Perhaps its reflection in the large dome is intriguing? We’ve seen this behavior with turtles, whale sharks, and sea lions before.
Other times, you’ll notice the baby peeking out from beneath mum’s chin. Making eye contact with both mum and baby as you mutually check one another out is endearing. It’s so precious to watch the mother nuzzle and cuddle her tiny miracle.
Seeing a mum push the baby to the surface on her rostrum (nose) is so sweet. Initially, this helps the baby learn when to surface for a breath. Eventually, it becomes a form of play with the baby riding along on its mother’s nose.
Baby humpback whales = overzealous Labrador puppies
Encountering a particularly boisterous humpback whale baby on our second day made us laugh aloud. Deciding it was time for a breath, it darted out from underneath mum’s chin, bombing towards another guest. After narrowly missing him with its floppy tail, it torpedoed toward Jason, lightly tapping his shoulder with its pec fin after turning a bit too late.
Repeating these antics a few times, we felt as if mum was relieved to have “babysitters” to keep him occupied and give her a short reprieve from her hyper baby. While the adults are graceful, agile, and spatially aware, the babies are clumsy, having not yet mastered rotating to avoid obstacles. I can definitely relate to this lack of spatial awareness as I frequently bump into things around the house.
As the adults are moving towards you, it’s amazing to watch them carefully pull in their 15 foot (5m) pectoral fins and pivot their bodies, gracefully gliding by within inches, without touching you. Alternatively, babies can’t really be trusted as they are just so excited to figure out who you are and what all their appendages can do for them.
Interacting with a Zen master humpback whale mama
Spending time with a mum interested in playing and engaging is incredibly special. Since she had a slightly older baby, she seemed very relaxed, not needing to keep as close an eye on the calf.
Rolling onto her back and extending her pecs perpendicular to her body, she floated weightlessly, looking utterly content. Slowly spinning in circles, she seemed to be in a Zen state. While she could quickly move her tail or pec fins to disappear into the depths, she opted to stay with us, enjoying the interaction as much as we were.
Interestingly, humpback whales are known to sleep in this position, shutting down one half of their brain. They often do this while the baby plays above them.
Humpback whale songs are intricate and hauntingly beautiful
Hearing a humpback whale song underwater for the first time was extraordinary. Typically, whale song can only be heard in winter breeding grounds or during migration. And, most of the song is outside the frequency we can hear.
During one super calm day, we could hear singing while sitting on the surface in the skiff. Sliding into the water and watching light rays dance while listening to the singing is meditative. Interestingly, if you are super close to a singer, it can be painful as it reverberates through every orifice.
Did you know that the humpback whale songs change each season? All the males sing the same song, with additional verses added throughout the season. No one knows if an alpha male adds verses or others. Maybe the singing is intended to pass down history through generations or attract a female.
Since humpback whales don’t have vocal chords, how they make the sounds is a mystery. They neither surface while singing nor generate bubbles. Do the females judge males based on how long they can stay down singing?
Humpback whale escorts can be the bane of your existence
After a few days of being “whale blocked” by escorts, we became convinced they were out to minimize our interactions with mums and babies. However, the other skiff disproved this theory since they were having great interactions, despite escorts’ presence.
We were ecstatic when an escort finally contradicted our theory. Escorts might be male whales wanting to mate or aunties helping out. The relationship can last hours or days. Since it was late in the season, we figured most had established themselves as the escort for the 3000 mile, two month journey to Antarctica.
Oftentimes, the escorts are hanging out below watching. Having one slowly emerge, pivot vertically, spyhop above the water and pirouette to check its surroundings delighted me. Following it to the surface and simultaneously seeing its head above water and body below water is a highlight emblazoned on my memory forever. Did you know a humpback whale’s head is 1/3 the length of its body?
Watching the three of them together while mom and baby vocalized, nuzzled and watched us was a spiritual experience. The baby’s squeaking combined with the escort’s bass vibrations and mother’s melodic sounds is beautiful. It’s incredibly memorable and touching to be so close to such massive animals that not only accept you but also interact and deftly maneuver around you. And, watching them move their tails in a synchronized fashion and surface – wow!
Saving the best for last
On our final day, after being mesmerized by whale song, we encountered a super chill humpback whale mom and baby who hung out and kept coming in for a closer look for 45 minutes. Swapping the groups out, we would spend five enchanting minutes at a time with them.
Once we thought they were done playing, we began climbing back into the skiff. Then, all of a sudden, we noticed the baby quickly and clumsily swimming towards us.
Watching it check out the white bottom of the skiff, we wondered if it thought the boat might be another whale with which to play (not that you ever see whale play dates).
Seeing it repetitively roll onto its back and spin in circles was so heartwarming. And, having mum confidently glide by, trusting you with her baby makes your heart swell for this tiny gift with which she’s entrusting you.
Contemplating humpback whale’s capacity for forgiveness
Despite humans decimating the worldwide whale population, these humpback whales have found a way to forgive. Did you know that two million whales were slaughtered in the Southern Hemisphere before whaling was banned in 1986?
Shockingly, only 50 breeding females remained in the Tongan humpback whale population after intense Soviet hunting from 1957 to 1967 slaughtered 45,000 whales. Since then, numbers have slowly increased to 2500-3000.
Interestingly, females return to their birthplace to have their babies. They prefer to give birth in sheltered warm waters close to the surface so that the baby can quickly get air. Since I still manage to get lost in my own neighborhood, I’m amazed they can find their way back each year. Their internal GPS far surpasses mine. Since gestation is 11-12 months, with a gap of 1-2 years between calves, repopulating this incredibly intelligent species that lives for 50 years takes time.
Humpback interaction rules
- No scuba diving is permitted
- Only 4 snorkelers + a guide in the water at a time
- Guide sets the pace – you should not swim ahead of the guide
- Turn on your side and swim with your feet underwater to minimize splash
- After 90 minutes, you must leave a mum and baby so as not to stress them
- If a mum is consistently rotating and putting herself between you and the baby, leave them to minimize stress. Mums with super young babies are often more protective and less apt to interact. We experienced that once with a tiny baby that was only a week or two old. Whales will let you know when they want to engage.
- Be prepared to swim quickly, be comfortable in choppy water and able to pull yourself back into the skiff
Logistics
- Humpback whale season is July-October. August/September = peak season
- Airlines: Fly with Air New Zealand via Auckland or Fiji Airways via Fiji
- Land based in Va’vau or Ha’apai or Liveaboard with N’aia. Book your spot a year in advance!
- 5 licenses in Ha’apai and 15 licenses in Va’vau.
- N’aia has the only liveaboard boat license & has been in Ha’apai 20 years
- We highly recommend Reef & Rainforest. They can help you with booking N’aia and airfare. We’ve booked eight trips throughout the world with them; we love working with Kim.
- Internet can be spotty in Tonga. Opt for an international package before you leave home.
What to pack
- 3-5MM full length wetsuit & neoprene beanie to stay warm in the 75 F (24 C) water
- Hat, UV Buff, coral safe sunscreen and polarized sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun. You can be on the water for eight hours exposed to fierce sun looking for whales. A wide-brimmed hat with a chinstrap is best in the strong winds.
- Drybag to put a windbreaker in to use on the surface between drops
- Full foot paddle fins (Booties, open heel, and/or split fins can lead to more buoyancy and splash).
- Mask and Snorkel. We love Riffe Snorkels. They do a great job keeping water out, which is key in rough waters. If you can, go to a local dive shop to try on a mask. Proper fit is key to minimize leaks. I prefer black masks to minimize light intrusion. I’ve had my Cressi Sub mask for 20 years!
- GoPro or underwater camera to capture the action. Having a screen on the back is key! Flash is NOT permitted. Bring extra batteries as ours ran out a few different times. And, bring plenty of memory. We filled two 32GB SD cards.
- Converters to charge your electronics
- No scuba diving equipment is needed since you are only allowed to snorkel with the whales
Epic 7 Travel is a for-profit blog. The post contains Affiliate links for which I receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. I only feature products that I own or would recommend regardless of an affiliate relationship. Read more in our Terms of Use. Thank you for your support of Epic 7 Travel!
Amazing post. Love the stories, the photos and videos. What an incredible experience.
Thanks so much, Vasey. I’m so glad you enjoyed it. My hope is that readers come away feeling as if they were there. It’s such a unique and special wildlife experience.
awesome, awesome experience!
Thanks so much Ric! We have such indelible memories from these encounters. It’s such
a privilege to be able to spend time connecting with them.
Wow! This is truly an extraordinary experience as you mention! This is something that I definitely want to put high up on my bucketlist. While reading this article I really felt like I was right there with you and enjoyed the mixing of your perspective with so many interesting facts about the whales. 🙂
Thanks a lot, Vanessa. It’s absolutely bucket list worthy. I’m so glad that the stories and images transported you to Tonga. I love sharing all the fascinating facts I learn with everyone. Once you begin planning for your Tonga visit, feel free to reach out with any questions you might have.
Amazing experience! I would think this experience would be near terrifying but obviously not the case. What a wonderful description of a surreal experience.
It really was Mark. Yes, you would think it would be disconcerting swimming next to car/submarine sized marine mammals, but it definitely wasn’t. They are so gentle, graceful and spatially aware that you never in any way feel threatened. The fact that they choose to spend time with you is really incredible. You are in awe the entire time you are in the water with them, hoping the moments could go on forever.
Great blog post. What an awesome experience. I loved being able to hear them in your videos. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you, Shannon. Hearing their vocalizations and whale song was one of the highlights for me too! Listening to that while the light rays danced was
mesmerizing.
There are not enough words for how wonderful this is. I smiled the whole way through. That video footage is fabulous. Beautiful job guys. Thanks so much for sharing.
Kylie, I’m overjoyed to hear that you enjoyed the images and videos from our experiences swimming with humpback whales in Tonga. It’s our most intimate wildlife encounter to date. We are so happy that the feelings that we felt while there are conveyed through our imagery and stories. They are such captivating and intelligent animals. It’s an incredibly special experience to share the water with them and observe their tender interactions.
I’m so in awe for your experience! It’s my dream to do this… it has been gor a while.
From the UK it’s a log expensive trip so working towards getting there. Hopefully next year will be my year!
Thank you for your beautiful share
Sabina
It’s a truly unforgettable experience that will touch your soul, Sabina. I’m so glad you enjoyed the images and videos of mums and calves. We loved it so much that we are returning again this year for the most intimate wildlife encounter of our lives. I hope you are able to get there next year as you will love it!
This is such an intimate and wonderful way to experience these magnificent beings Marielena. Looking forward to more info from this year’s trip. 😊
Rare / @JoyfulandMighty
Rare, I’m so glad you enjoyed the imagery and stories from our first experience with the whales. It truly touches your soul in innumerable ways. I can’t wait to share more of the moments that took our breath away from our most recent trip. It’s such a privilege and so healing to spend time watching the interactions between these intelligent and sentient animals and having their beautiful whale song reverberate through the water and your body as the males sing.
Such an amazing experience! This is giving my huge wanderlust and I really enjoyed the tips and photos were so heart warming ❤️
Thanks so much, Sam! To share the water with such sentient animals is such a privilege. It’s so beautiful to watch the tender interactions between mother and calf. I’m delighted you enjoyed the imagery, stories and tips!
Very nice and very useful! I am going a little towards the end of the season but I am hoping it will still be fine. Glad I found you through Instagram ;). Thanks for sharing Marielena!
Very nice and very useful! I am going a little towards the end of the season but I am hoping it will still be fine. Glad I found you through Instagram ;). Thanks for sharing Marielena!
So glad you found the article helpful! You will have the time of your life. It’s the most intimate wildlife encounter we have had the privilege of experiencing. I’m so glad Instagram connected us and can’t wait to hear all about your experiences in Tonga! Have a wonderful time!